Text: Jigme Tshelthrim Wangyal
Photos: Piet Vander Poel
Written in the Year: 2003
When bulls act as beasts of burden. The picture was taken just before Tsharzam
Bumdeling Wildlife
Sanctuary (BWS) located in the northeast of Bhutan covering parts of three
administrative districts of Trashiyangtse, Mongar, and Lhuentse is known for its
wonderful wildlife; mammals, birds, forests, snow-capped mountains, springs, and lakes. Many scenic spots form cup-like shapes highlighted by the lofty mountains
all around with charming murmuring streams, sparkling lakes, enchanting
springs, and trees presenting a panorama of unparallel beauty and splendor.
The inner recesses of
BWS are Samteling (Shingphel), Pemaling,
Ngangpatsho, and Gamaygangchung in the northern parts of the
sanctuary that form charming rest places for local tourists (especially Buddhist pilgrims), wildlife enthusiasts and botanists and
are valuable for pleasure seekers and quiet heavy travelers. Staffs of BWS rush to these places every summer to serve and keep away intruders and poachers of medicinal plants, Ophiocordyceps fungus, and wild animals with zest and enthusiasm.
The climate and physiography
of the sanctuary make Singye Dzong resemble Shingphel. Singye
Dzong is typically a small mountain valley surrounded by peaks over 4200m
MASL. It is indeed a charming place where blood pheasants, thrushes, and other birds are abundant. The
silver fir, rhododendron, and other conifers all around not only add to the
scenic beauty of this place but also make music of their own in the silence of
woods agreeable to ears. The climate though in peak winters is a bit cold, its salubrious weather in other seasons puts life and vigor in dull,
heavy, and jaded bodies. It is pleasantly cool in summer and the graceful grassy
plateaus offer excellent camping sites though commercial tourism is yet to pick
up for these areas. The waters of springs that abound here are as limpid as crystal, as cool
as ice, and possess medicinal properties.
In winter, when the snow
and ice cover the hills, the scenery of these mountains is even more charming
and attractive. Not far from Singye Dzong are two natural lakes in fine
surroundings. They are not the largest of lakes the sanctuary can boast of but
their beauty is nonpareil. They are amongst the beautiful lakes amidst
alpine meadows of the area known to local people as Tshokar meaning the
white lake and Tshona the black lake and are the most frequented place
of pilgrimage at a height of about 4500m MSL. Singye Dzong the most meaningful Dzongs of the 8 Dzongs viz., Gawa, Pema, Namkha, Dorji,
Rinchen, Tsemo, and Dhuelwa gives the name for the area in general
although each Dzong names have their explicit meanings. The number of local
pilgrims keeps rising every year. Before reaching proper Singye Dzong, there are places like “Terja”- a place of hundred relics, a transit camp for local Singye Dzong yak herders which number a dozen or so is a
beautiful place worth noting. The scenery around this place is no less enthralling than that of other areas that are hailed highly for beauty.
The happy valley of Shingphel
in the north abounds numerous religious places but out of these, Pemaling,
Pelhuring, Sichung Gonella, Ngangpatsho and Gamagangchu are places worth
visiting for learning and for pilgrimage. However quick the pen and vigorous
the language, the writers fail in describing the beauty and the flora-faunal
wealth that nature has invested them with. Permalink is the quaintest
place in BWS. The unspoiled beauty of the landscape and the dancing snow-fed streams that abound there are unique.
Half a kilometer away
from Pemaling is Ugyenling a beautiful place with an old Bhutan
Army Post en route to the Pelphuring or the Shar Dorjiling Ney. An amazing sight here is a snow-covered mountain known as Zangdo Pelri surrounded by three lakes by the name of Yee
Dham Dorji Saempay Latsho, Phagpa Chenrezee Latsho – the lake of Avalokistewara and then the Shinjee Latsho- the lake of Yamraj. Another
unique feature of this place is the beauty of having no permission to spit
anything from the mouth. Local people consider the place as heaven. Visit this
and one surely will like the place and wouldn’t like coming back. Walking along
by the end of these three marvelous lakes one must cross the common outlet of the
three lakes to reach Lamai Torma- a ritual cake for offering to god in
Buddhist belief. A few minutes after crossing Lamai Torma is the great Sichung Gongella the tri-junction where China, India, and Bhutan meet.
Going by the writer’s
way, the story of this beautiful sanctuary does not end here. It has so many
places of religious importance like Rigsoom Gonpa and Dechen Phodrang
in the northeast, Chorten Rangjung, and Dechencholing in the
northwest followed by the Thrichu Gonpa and Gonpa Karpo in the
south and southeast respectively.
This article would remain
incomplete without components of Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary by way of trails
and ways, river and river valleys, catchments and watersheds, monasteries and
religious places, passes and mountains, mammals, birds, fishes, butterflies,
plants of importance and other plants, management, and staff. The conclusion of
this article which is a long way shall focus on this small conservation unit
that does a good job for a good purpose; just as a single step for a man a giant
leap for mankind shall be “a true conservation effort by a group of true
conservationist a mass worldwide help for sinking world environment”, working
locally and thinking globally.
Beautiful Bumdeling Valley was victimized by the recent flood. The valley has since changed a lot.
BY WAY OF TRAILS
1. The
Trashiyangtse – Yadi and Shershong way.
In the southern part of the wildlife sanctuary are the trails from Trashiyangtse to Yadi
using a vehicle a three hours journey followed by a drive from Yadi to
Kafu along the feeder road for about a kilometer. Park one’s
car at Kafu and walk about an hour and a half to reach Sershong
along the chirpine-broadleaf mixed forest flat and uphill mixed. Be at Sershong
to take a rest and halt for the day. Next move to Soenakhar along
the subtropical broad-leaved forest straight to reach Bomey, a
cool breeze from the streams around would take you without much difficulty to
the bridge over the upper part of Sherichu upstream of the well-known Sherizam
that is on the Trashigang-Mongar high way.
Cross this suspension bridge and climb uphill for about an hour to reach Yarab - a place of religious importance in the oak forest. Leaving Yarab
behind getting along the cool broad-leaved forest uphill for about half an hour after
which a straight trail would lead the traveler to Aja - a place hailed
high for the presence of 100 last alphabet of Thumay Sambota
signifying the second letter of a Buddhist mantra OHM “AH” HUM BADZA GURU
PADMASEDHI HOOM meaning to say that the place was visited by the famous
Buddhist saint Guru Rinpoche during his lifetime. To
reach Aja a traveler crosses 100 rivulets and hundred ridges that are
not as big and high respectively as their religious significance.
2. The
Sershong- Thilling way
From Sershong under Sherimung
in Mongar is Thilling a one-day walk. It is in
the warm broad-leaved forest. The trail is beautiful. Walk along and see if things
are fine on the way. Keep moving to reach Thramo to go on to Yarab.
3. The
Aja- Phuningla trail.
Leaving Aja behind, one can
come back to Yadi way or can go the Phuningla way
uphill along the pasture and scattered fir forest for about a day lunching at a
beautiful unnamed meadow. Phuningla is the end of the sanctuary.
Moving down south straight the trail drops down to Wambur to
return to Trashiyantse via Gorgan or go for some fun to Lhuentse Dzong.
4. The
Gorgan-Khoma way
Going the Gorgan (outside
the sanctuary) way drop at Soompa Zam to again enter the
sanctuary at Khoma Range Office. Khoma is a beautiful
place housing Renewal Natural Resource Centre, a lower secondary school, and a
Park Range Office. See Khoma ladies weaving high-income earning Kiras-
the Kishu Tharas (the most expensive cloth worn by Bhutanese ladies).
To reach Khoma from Soompa Zam it is an hour’s
walk. Khoma is a first-class place for visiting and halting. A
wonderful track leads one through.
5. The Khoma- Singye Dzong trial
Leaving Khoma behind move north to
reach Tsango along the beautiful Komachhu crossing
broadleaf mixed for a day. Beautiful rivulets are part of the journey that is enchanting.
Tsango has a population of about 65 people depending mainly on upland farming and handicraft making.
Khomakang
village on the way to Singye Dzong - must halt village
Tsango includes Khomakhang
and Denchung villages as well, which are sometimes given a
separate status by surveyors of various subjects from the sanctuary. Thangkarmo
is another place one day away from Tsango passing through an army
outpost by the name of Tsikang. The forest type in this locality is invariably
cool broad-leaf and conifer added to their beauty by meandering streams that
are the tributaries of Komachhu. A half-day walk from Thangkarmo
via Dhogsoom River- the end of Tshokar-Tshona takes one to Singye
Dzong the already sufficiently explained place of religious importance.
6. The
Singye Dzong-Tshokar and Tshona trial
Singye Dzong takes one to
Tshokar–Tshona as described earlier which finally leads to Menchuna - the
international border between Bhutan and China. Return to Dhogsoom
to move up northeast and walk about three hours along the juniper and fir forest
to reach Rongmateng. This place is among the junipers. Phomoche
is the next place one would come across moving uphill for half day. Phomoche
is cattle grazing ground. Junipers dominate the vegetation cover. The next
grazing ground one day away from Phomoche is Thangchenpo - meaning
a big plain after which is Garula - the border between two administrative
districts of Lhuentse and Trashiyangtse.
7. The
Choetenkora-Tongshang way
Drive form Choetenkora
till Koncholing. Walk down towards a bridge over the Kulongchu. Cross
this bridge and walk up the trail to reach Thrichu Gonpa crossing Pang and Rabti villages, halt at Thrichu Gonpa to move and reach Lay
Brangsa- a pasture land. From Lay Brangsa it is now Thrumnangla Ridge,
which is no less important than conserving the forest. From here one can go to Sherichu
catchments and join oneself at Aja. Moving further on it is going to be a
beautiful journey.
8. The
Choetenkora- Dongla trial
Walk to the old Yangtse
Dzong for about half an hour from Choetenkora town or drive 10 minutes. A new fair-weather forest road has come up. Keep moving to reach Drissa and
halt at Shakshing. A cool broad-leaf forest is through which one
walks here in this area. After Shakshing is Taupang and Lipsang meadows.
Moving further for a day via Dongla Pass is Pemithang.
Keep moving through the nine-mountain sisters locally called Rigoo and reach Tangmachhu
Zam via Menbji village in Lhuentse. Take a lift in a car
or taxi to Khoma Zam from Tangmachhu Zam. A total of five days takes one to reach the
other end of the sanctuary.
An enchanting scene from Dongla beyond the horizons as found in winter
9. The
Choetenkora- Tobrang trail.
In the northern part of
the sanctuary are the trials from Choetenkora to the
international border, which is described below going by one's experience and
understanding at the end of the five years of sanctuary establishment.Leave Choetenkora
crossing a suspension bridge known by the name of Tsharzam after
which comes Koktorkang in 15 minutes. This small stream called Kooktorkang
has a history of carrying away Chorten (stupa) and a concrete house
with five people - a mom with two handsome sons and two beautiful daughters, all students of then Trashiyangtse High school in the year 2000. Their
Father, a Forester was away from home on that fateful summer night on duty. Cross
this terrifying stream over a small bridge. Of late a fairweather road has come up that
takes a traveler to Bumdeling. The trial bifurcates at a place called
Trammar before reaching Bumdeling. The upper way takes
one along the farm road, a pleasant walk through the oak forests that
breaks at intervals with the villages of Phanteng and Ngangteng.
The lower trail takes one to a village by the name of Badigang - a
place right on the bank of the mighty Kulongchu River which may get
carried away at some point of time in the rainy season seeing the condition
of the roaring river eating away their agriculture land. Right after crossing the river is the feeding grounds of the black-necked crane (Grus nigricollis), a regular winter visitor
of the sanctuary continuing through which one reach Dungzam, a
place with extra attached importance of having government offices for local
development. This is the center of Bumdeling Gewog's administration.
Remember Bumdeling is 1930 meters above sea level. Rest at this place
can bring pleasure with a countable number of shops trying to outclass each
other with each shop trying to attract as many numbers of customers to their
shop.
Choetenkora-Tobrang Trail begins here near the suspension bridge (Tsharzam)
10. The
Tobrang- Shingphrel trial
Tobrang
story left behind to move up north further cool broad-leaf forest would engulf one.
The trial at times can be as dangerous during the rainy season with leeches. From
now on it is difficult to find villages, Longkhar being the last
village on the record. Crossing Longkhar village one comes across
a “Loo”- the traditional Bhutanese rice and another grinding sort of machine operated by human strength. Logkhar to Laou
as a usual destination is interesting without so much of climb but not without so
much of places of importance of their own.
Longkhar village, the last permanent settlement of upper Bumdeling
A line series upward
before reaching You are; Tobrang Rong, Longkhar,
Premnakang, Nasudung, and Barigang- a
dangerous seasonal stream that can stop the travel as it likes. Phomadung,
Hodhorma, Tabilichu, Tabli Dzong, Tabli Zam, Shaso, Shasochu, Namngoen,
and last but not the least Laou - the destination for the day if one decides to
stay for the day. It is about four hour's walk along the Kulongchu
Bank on a muddy and leech-filled trail. There is also a place called Saney
a cattle camp around Shaso but it is not on the trail.
Lou is
well above 3000 meters above sea level. Two rivers named Shingphelchu
and Laouri chu meet here to create the Kulongchu River.
No fish fauna from here upward. The journey from Laou to Shingphel
is interesting but not less difficult. Walk uphill along the banks of Shingphelchu,
one is now in the fir zone with Bamboo breaks. Cross Shingphelca hu, a little further up and in just about half an hour one is at Ngansii-
another pasture for the same group of people. Twenty minutes away from proper Ngansii
one come across a place known as Ngansii Pragogtay- the monkey’s
head of Ngansii. Legend has it that the first-time visitor to
this area must shout like a monkey three times so that the travel period is
completely free of any bad happenings. Cross Pragogtay Rong for
good to reach Sangsangkeri - the place from where one can see Pemaling’s
Jagae Phungpori and a place from where first-time visitors should sing a
song facing Pemaling to forgo any bad happenings through his
journey. After walk for about an hour, one would reach Dhela - a place good
for resting and having tea. This place in the fir zone is used as pasture by
our pastoralists. Huts of fir timber are made for their stay, which any
traveler can use for good.
Having snacks at Dhela
cross over the Dhela Rong after which is Mauzamra Rong
another roaring stream. Then is Dhonkhemthang - a tiny meadow in
the fir forest. Rest here if need be and move on to reach “Company Chobgyalma”- a huge stone the legend behind which is having to cross it
in 18 steps that if one can do is in a position to serve his father and mother
as they desire. Woh! It looks impossible which is why it is beautiful in itself. Gompang
Chobgyalma takes one to Rosay phu a big stone cave after
which is Chukharphu Thang - a beautiful meadow to rest from the
sweating journey. A few minutes further walk carry one onward to Khesa
Dhochu – a stream that flows underneath a big rock. History has that one
should drink this water eighteen phorps to have a travel without
trouble. Then comes Khesa Naruth - a stone that would allow one’s
passage up the trail only after whetting one’s nose till it bleeds. But now the
size of the stone has reduced owing to regular whetting by the residents of
Shingphel on their regular up and down movement.
Following up would take one to reach
Khesa Pangthang after which comes the Jalang-Boilang
rocks above a stream. Those two oxen from India (Janalng) and
Tibet (Boilang) in this place were on a fighting spree when a
Bhutanese herder intervened to stop the two angry bulls. A small stone in
between the two big stones represents the Bhutanese mediator cowboy. Walk up to
reach Phesoochu – a stream followed by Thongtsam –
a meadow from which one can see Shingphel before which is a Yak
Chella – the ridge that can put off the walking yak and then is proper Shingphel,
the destination. Some books of pilgrimage named it Samtenling. Here
you get suja with thick butter over the cup surface. Halt
at Shingphel is a must.
Samtenling or Shingphel (Photo: Author)
11. Shingphel-Mela
trail
Leave Shingphel
climbing an uphill trail to reach Mela Shothang (4273 MASL) another
spot for grazing for the yaks of the people of Shingphel. They stay here with
their cattle at some suitable point in time. They being grazers depend solely
on livestock products besides barter trade behind the Mela
pass in a place called Shothang because it is the
historical place the plain for playing the game of dice. According to the
residents, the place was used for trading between Bhutanese and Tibetan
traders in the past where the traders used to play Parala – a
Bhutanese and Tibetans game of dice.
By the way, timberline ends a few meters
away from Shingphel and Shothang is just in the alpine meadows. A stone standing right at the entry of Shothang has been hailed as the walking
stick of Guru Padmasambhava in the unaccounted Ney Yeg (explanation
of a place about religion) written by Tibetan Yogis immediately after
which is stone with a hole at its base to fill up with our testes while sitting
on top to check if one is going to profit in the barter business across
the border at Mela Shothang. Moving up through this beautiful plain one
would reach the seat of Ugyen Padmasmbava known as Guru
Sungthrue.
Further up one would find
a pass with stones put together to create a stupa-like hillock with flags over
them. But this isn’t certainly the end of the trail in the sanctuary. There are sub-trails to visit, walk, study and see.
12. Mela
Shothang-Pemaling trail
From Mela Shothang
if one moves northwest it is first the Rigsoom Latsho (4313 MASL)
cuddling at the base of three equally built peaks known as the Rigsoom
Goenpa- meaning the holy place of three peaks depicting Chenrezee,
Jampeyang, and Chana Dorji. Move on a trail that takes one
up and down one reaches Bjang Youmtsho Nyoenmo- the blue
female lake of the north. It is a big lake. Keeping up the trail one comes across Bjang Karmaling Gi Dhoethroe - the cremation ground of the
north Karmlaing leaving behind which is Jitsun Mela Draphug.
Famous Tibetan saint Jitsun Mela Repa was supposed to have
meditated here in this cave so the name. No wonder, one can see nettle plant in front of the cave that matches the story of Jitsun Mela who fed on nettles when he was then meditating.
Then is Kuenzang Yabyoum Draphug -
a cave after which Khando Jowa Boom Gi Tshogkhang -
a bowl-like stone considered as the bowl in which the celestial bodies served
food to Guru Rinpoche. Climb up to reach Yakla (4640 MASL)
a hillock through which to drop down to reach the famed Pemaling
(4343 MASL). Pemaling is a religious place. A hermitage opposite
the herder camp by the name of Sangay Draphug always has someone
meditating in it. This place is associated with religion more than others. Rest
at Pemaling is a must for moving further to Pelphuring
via Ugyenling as mentioned earlier. At Ugyenling
the sites of Loi Dhoethroe –the cremation ground of the south, Ugyen
Pelzha- the cap of Ugyen Rimpoche, Choechong
Zangtho Marpo, Dorji Phagmo Latsho, Tsheboom, Tshekhang, Tsita after
that is Shar Gi Dhoethroe - the crematorium of the East and the Royal
Army Post.
13. Pemaling-Pelphuring
trail
Let’s move now to the tri-junction-the
meeting point of three countries Bhutan, China, and India from Pemaling.
Four hours more upward than an occasional downward walk would take one to Pelphuring.
But in between let’s not
miss the sites of religious importance such as in order from down to up old arm
post forgetting the ones at Ugyenling area, Ser Gi Jachung - the
golden bird, Ma Ser Gi Rubel - the golden mother tortoise, Ney
Sarma - the new site of pilgrimage (this is underground and quite
fearful), Kanjur Lhakhang - the monastery of the great Buddhist book Kanjur,
Khandoi Saelthab - the oven of celestial bodies and Khandoi
Tshoshong - the offered bowl of rice/eateries.
Move on to reach Namdha
Thruel Gi Latsho - the lake of eternal cleanliness. The local people
believe the wash in this lake will purify all the sins one has committed in his
lifetime and that one shall be born in heaven the next life. How certain is
this yet to be known? After 15 minutes or so is the Dholep Pema Chen -
the stone depicts Guru Rimpoche’s manhood. People
circumumbulate this stone and pray for peace and prosperity. Moving down is Jitsun
Demai Latsho – the lake of goddess Tara. Then is the famed Shar
Dorjiling Gi Ney also called Pelphuring
(4369 MASL) as described earlier. Halt here for the day.
14. The
Pelphuring-Sichung Gongella trail
If one wants to move further it’s then the
three prominent lakes of Yee Dham Dorji Saempay Latsho, Phagpa Chenrezee
Latsho, and then the Shinjee Latsho - the largest of the
three as described earlier. However, before reaching these three lakes are the
well-explained stone deities of Lagm Chey Sala Rabten - the
elephant that is fixed in the soil at the base of the so-called Zangdo
Pelri as mentioned earlier in this very note of insignificance. Walking
at the base of the Zangdo Pelri one come across a plain by the
name of Tsamay Ta Joog Thang - the grass-less ground where the
horses run. History has that the horse Tachung Balaha (depicted
in the form of stone in the plain), the riding stallion of Guru Rimpoche
used this ground to play. This is the ground on which one is
not allowed to even spit. It is heaven.
Moving on, one can see an opening on the face of the cliff
rising from the Shinjee Latsho called Shinjee Zhey -
the mouth of Lord Yamraj ready to consume anything that comes it's way. This
opening of the cliff is supposed to be the gateway through which people are
sent after their death. After about an hour’s walk from the Shinjee
Latsho, there is Lamai Torma - the supposedly sacred stone
below which is a lake by the name of Dungkhartsho - a white
colored lake. After some walk from here is the tri-junction as described
earlier. Sichung Gongella (4637MASL) do house some huts of Indian
herders from Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh. Around Sichung Gongella
are the lake of Shar Dungtsho Karmo the end of which gets divided
into two perennial streams one going the Arunachal way to form an important
tributary of Dangmaychu that flows through Duksoom
in Trashiyangtse and the other one flowing towards a village
called Longkhar in upper Bumdeling Geog which joins
Kulongchu opposite Longkhar as Langmalachu.
The people of upper Bumdeling believe that the quantum of river
flow from Sichung Gongella towards Bhutan that is Langmalachu
if more is associated with the production of farm crops. If the river flow towards
Arunachal is more the crop production in upper Bumdeling is less
and vice versa depending on the quantum of water flow on each side. This is the
end of Bhutan and if one wants to cross beyond this point one needs a permit from
the respective government. Return the same way down to Namdha Thruel Gi
Tsho. Decide if one wants to come back via little giant Yarala
another pass through which one can reach Mela pass but using
others' territory. This way is definitely shorter than the other way but is not
legal.
Through Yarala
way one comes across the plain name Rishing a place for pitching
tents. Keep walking Bringateng just behind Mela
pass welcomes one. Rush up to the pass towards our country. Don’t move their
way. One should not be any sort of problem. Return to Shingphel
the heart of one’s alpine home. Hours in between these places are not on record
but certainly, there is not so long a journey that would need a record of time
taken. It is because no journey is that difficult. On a clear weather day, one
can see trails through which one is supposed to go.
15. The
Pemaling-Shingphel trail
At the end of Pemaling
way, the trail guide shouldn’t cheat the traveler. If one wants to directly return
to Shingphel there is a way along a perennial stream that joins Shingphelchu
at Shingphel. It is but a difficult trail. There is a heaven
named Euela Kay Pay Zhingkham on the way down south. It is just
about an hour’s journey downward and two hours up from Shingphel.
16. The
Shingphel-Ngangpatsho way
Having gone up to the end
of the country and having bypassed the other countries let’s move back to
Shingphel and move up the Singye Dzong way. Move north of
Samtenling to go to Noobkoh another grazers’
campsite. Climb an almost 90-degree trail one is at Ata Passang.
Sorry, the writer has no story to narrate about this place. After Ata
Passang is Gamay Gangchung through Shookpola -
the juniper pass after which is Ngangpatsho - a beautiful lake
without any religious link to narrate. Halt at Ngangpatsho.
17. The
Ngangpatsho-Garula trail
Uphill climb of about an
hour takes one to Yangtsela after moving up and down for quite
some time. At Yangtsela decide which way one wants to move the
upper way or the lower way. The upper way takes one to Garula in two hours while
the lower one takes one hour to reach the same spot. At Garula take
some time to decide which way to move. The upper one would take one to Thangchenpo
in six hours and one might like to halt at Rongmateng, as it is five hour journey from Thangchenpo. If you follow the lower way it is
via Logola - another pass in the thick of alpine meadows. From Logola
it is just half an hour to reach Dhoogsoom - a place through which
one would go the Khoma way or the Singye Dzong way.
The Logola way is the quickest but without Rongmateng
and Thangchepo. The two administrative areas of Trashiyangtse
and Lhuentse are now connected.
18. The
Trashiyangtse-Lhuentse way
The sanctuary can be
entered and exited by way of a vehicle as well. Drive from Trashiyangtse
to Lhuentse via Mongar carry one to the other part
of the sanctuary easily.
19. The Choetenkora-Rigsoom Gonpa Trail
Move from Choetenkora
to Bumdeling and trail northeast of Bumdeling via the villages of Lamdrawog and Ngandhur. Climb up across
Laptsa. After about two hours it is Rigsoom Gonpa.
Uphill climb but famous monastery built by the government of Bhutan so many
years ago, for the security of the country as Shartoe Rigsoom Gonpa
equal to Sharmae Yongla Gonpa.
Visit this monastery and one’s mind will be at peace. Moving on up the trail one can’t find big trails
although there are as many as small trails used by musk deer hunters or the
timber sawyers. A single trail continues to Shookpoda - a place
for hunters and hermits to halt, just below the timberline.
Rigsoom Gonpa monastery with Lama Dorji as
its abode (Photo: Author)
20. The
Bumdeling to Thabjur-Shookpoda trail
Move to Shookpoda
via Zhapang and Thabjur is two days. Distance is
less but the climb is harsh so two days with a meadow at Thabjur
followed by broad-leaf forest and then the bamboo breaks with final fir forest
and the rhododendron scrubs. One come across Goina - a place
abandoned by some families looking for greener pasture that is now the herding camp of Bumdeling
residents. This place is supposed to have so dangerous wild
pigs and Himalayan Black Bears. Up the trail is Thabjur - the
next halt from Bumdeling. From this place, one can see the majestic Rigsoom
Gonpa to the east. This place then is followed by a halt at Shookpoda
or Demala base. Remember these trails are for hunters so
not so easily crossed.
21. The
Demala-Pema Dema Draphug trail
From Demala
is Pema Dema Draphug. You are moving through the alpine screes
and the rhododendron forest. No proper trail to jump up and down finding a good
place to place the foot for good. This is one of the most dangerous of all the
trails described. Reaching the named lady hunter cave- that Pema
Dema Draphug is beautiful. Here one can see the best example of alpine
screes and the rhododendron. A beautiful cave that can house about twenty people.
Dechenphodrang Monastery is visible but miles
below the cliff
At one point on the cliff, one can see the majestic Dechenphodrang Lhakhang. Naturalists and
foresters alike do not know the name of this spot and the hunters wouldn’t name
it. There is supposedly a trail that would take one to upper villages through
this forest. It is not a very well-known cave for the hunters from the
aforementioned villages.
22. Pema
Dema Draphug- Phuthouenbula/Tharpa Draphug trail
A day walk from Pema
Dema Draphug is Phuthouenbula Draphug or Tharpa Draphug. The name is given
by the author as a hunter Tharpa Wangchuk took him through these places. Alpine screes and rhododendron at alternate intervals one can get
through unnamed lakes of unparalleled beauty and splendor. Tracks of old musk
deer traps are part of the journey. It is a tedious six hours journey with few
transit camps of hunters on the way to take rest. An unnamed lake lies below the
Pema Dema Draphug. Through these cliffs and plains of the alpine
forest, there is a point from where one can see Choetenkora and Vohminang
villages. Tharpa Draphug is a big cave that can house about twenty people.
23. Tharpa
Draphug- Khulong Phugpo trail for hunting
Leaving behind Tharpa
Draphug is the next destination Khulong Phugpo - the land
of hunters. It is a tedious three hours walk first dropping down to a stream and next climbing almost 90 degrees to reach that beautiful plateau. Here the
hunters enjoy the game. Don’t move down further, if one does so it’s an Indian
Army Post after three hours down the trail. From this spot, one can see Barigang
catchments falling down with fresh floods. There are good caves around, see for yourself and enjoy. The name of this place is derived from the string of
a hunter’s bow Khulong - meaning bowstring. Here in this cave, the
hunters make their bowstrings. One better returns from this place because one
doesn’t know the any further.
24. The
Wang Tshering way I: To come and go from Bumdeling to Tibet
A yesteryear’s prolific
hunter by name of Ap Wang Tshering had his own way during his
hunting days. He comes from Dhomkhar in Tibet and is now a
Bhutanese citizen. At present, he stays at Dechencholing Gonpa above
Ngalimang village. Dhomkhar in Tibet is from where
he starts to reach Dza Rinchen Phugpo still in Tibet in one day.
25. The
Wang Tshering way II: To come to Bumdeling to Tibet
The next day after Dza
Rinchen Phugpo is Demala from
where he had the choice of moving the Shingphel way to come down
to Choetenkora or the Thapjur way, which comes like
Demala (border) to Tshokarpo of the north and then
to Dhomtshang after which is Chugom Phugpo in
India. Move down via Lasarp to reach Khulong Phugpo and
follow the trail that would bring one to Thabjur via all the
places mentioned above. The name of Pema Dema Draphug derives
from a lady hunter. Ap Sanga Rinzin a Tibetan hunter who resided
in Kurtoe brought along with him his wife Pema Dema on a hunting spree. Hence, the name of the cave.
26. The
Bumdeling-Pangkhar way to reach Khoma
Walk up to Pangkhar
from Bumdeling to reach Pangla for a halt.
Next move to Korkang after which one is joined by Khomakang
village. This is also a trial one can use if need be. Meet the
beautiful and handsome people of Pangkhar. They wouldn’t be
unhappy to see one from outside or inside their village.
27. The
limited ways
These are the ways
I returned since definite destinations could not be located. They are, the Bumdeling
Yorupang way, and the Choetenkora to Vohminang way
to reach Dipla and return for good for having to touch the end of
Arunachal Pradesh state of India. These are a few trails of importance but
insignificant as people have shunned using these trails.
Shingphel - also known as Samtenling in some texts.
Acknowledgments
People deserving thanks for this article
is Dr. P V Poel for leaving pictures with me, Mr. Phurba Lhendup for lending
his valuable computer skills, and Mr. Karma Gyamtsho, Park Ranger of Khoma for his
best effort to share information on the trails in his area.
References
1. Patrolling Reports of the past four years on record in the Sanctuary Headquarter
2. Survey reports of the Sanctuary
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