LOOKING BACKWARDS - NOSTALGIA

Touring Singye Dzong area for Cordyceps sinensis - A report

Jigme Tshelthrim Wangyal

&

Karma Jamtsho

Neten Tshering

Tshewang Dorji

July 9, 2006

Initial trip itinerary for the tour as planned

16/06/2006 - Yadi (Mongar) to Khoma (For Serzhong staffs)

17/06/2006 - Khoma to Tsangwa

18/06/2006 - Tsangwa to Thangkarmo

19/06/2006 - Thangkarmo to Raelmoteng (Rongmateng for most)

20/06/2006 - Raelmoteng (Halt at Raelmoteng for meeting with locals)

21/06/2006 - Raelmoteng to Phomoche

22/06/2006 - Phomoche to Thangchenpo

23/06/2006 - Thangchenpo to Garula

24/06/2006 - Garula (halt for meeting with Shingphel colleagues)

25/06/2006 - Garula to Thangchenpo

26/06/2006 - Thangchenpo to Phomoche

27/06/2006 - Phomoche to Raelmoteng

28/06/2006 - Raelmoteng to Singye Dzong

29/06/2006 - Singye Dzong (Halt for meeting with Dubdhey Lam and others)

30/06/2006 - Singye Dzong to Youmthrameyma Latsho

01/07/2006 - Youmthrameyma Latsho to Singye Dzong

02/07/2006 - Singye Dzong to Neyrimthang

03/07/2006 - Neyrimthang to Tshokar

04/07/2006 - Tshokar to Neyrimthang

05/07/2006 - Neyrimthang to Singye Dzong

06/07/2006 - Singye Dzong to Thangkarmo

07/07/2006 - Thangkarmo to Tsangwa

08/07/2006 - Tsangwa to Khoma

09/07/2006 - Khoma to Yadi (For Serzhong staffs)

 Touring group

1. Mr. Karma Jamtsho, Park Range Officer, Khoma as Team Leader
2. Mr. Neten Tshering, Park Guard, Khoma Park Range
3. Mr. Jigme Tshelthrim Wangyal, Sr. Park Ranger, Serzhong Park Range
4. Mr. Tshewang Dorji, Sr. Park Guard, Serzhong Park Range
5. Mr. Tsaripa, Reesoop, Khoma Gewog, Lhuentse

Tour team at Youm Thramae Lhatsho

Abstract

 One of the main objectives of Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary is to maintain ecological integrity of the ecologically highly valuable snow capped mountains to their eternity. Keeping in mind the aforementioned mandate of the protected area two teams of staffs are deployed to the two border areas of Singye Dzong in Lhuentse and Shingphel in Trashiyangtse on annual basis during the months of June and July. This tour is mandated by the management plan, guided by the recent Royal Command allowing the residents of high altitude areas to harvest Cordyceps sinensis  and is recommended by the head of the management and the Department of Forests to understand the situation in the alpine areas and along the international borders.

 Specific objectives of the tour

As mentioned in the abstract part of the report the objectives of the tour are as per the management mandates mentioned below.

1. Patrol the Cordyceps sinensis growing areas in and around Singye Dzong. 

2. Control the entry of foreign intruders (if any) across Gangla - a pass known to have access to the Chinese occupied Tibet. The management has record of intruders collecting the medicinal plant, Cordyceps sinensis from our area.

3. Issue permits for collection of Cordyceps sinensis to the residents of Singye Dzong as per the legalization guidelines of the Royal Government 2004 through Royal Command. However, this could not be done as the information for change in collection timing was received late.

4.  To control and supervise the collection of the Fungi by the people who have been given legal right to do so with technical guidance from the Department of Forests.

5. To inform the people of changes in dates about the collection timing. This year the last date for collection of the fungi was kept as 15th June unlike the past system of collection allowed till 30th June. The change in timing has been based on the recommendations of the research wing of the Agriculture Ministry of the Royal Government.

6. To check any illegal activities that happen in the fur flung areas of the protected area

7. Update and inform the management of any new things that are happening across the touring area.

8. Check and update people of this terrains about the latest changes in forest rules

9. Support rural people through observation and recommendations to the management as to how the things have to happen as per law so they are benefited.

Part I: Cordyceps sinensis monitoring and collection

 I. Cordyceps sinensis habitats in Khoma Park Range specifically Singye Dzong areas

From the experiences in the past two years and this year and as per the information received from the local residents the following are the areas where Cordyceps sinensis are known to grow either in pieces or in plenty;

1. Tshomkoh crossing Thangchenpo 

This place called Tshomkoh at an altitude of about 4600m is known to have Cordyceps

2. Lehikema below Thangchenpo

Lehikema (4000m) also known for having Cordyceps had not a piece this time

3. Thangchenpo (4255m)

Even the research plot laid in June 2005 at Thangchenpo did not bear a single Cordyceps

4. Garula (5055m) Pemithang (4200m)Even at Garula Pemithang (area under Dungzam Park Range) where plenty are known to grow (according to local sources) one could hardly find the Cordyceps accepting our local guide Kookpa Sonam Jamtsho resident of Thangchenpo who could locate at least six pieces of them in about one and half hour.

5. Neyrimthang

Neyrimthang above Singye Dzong, which is known for the fungus, was found as bare as other Cordyceps growing areas this year

6. Youm Thramayma Latsho area

Areas around this basin is known to grow Cordyceps in the past save for this year

7. Tshokar and Tshonag basins

    Tshokar with Gangla (international border) in background         Tshonag basin dark and deep   

The areas around this two lakes are known to have Cordyceps but for this year

Ophiocordyceps sinensis economically viable and ecologically high mountains species

II. Other Cordyceps habitats in the Park Range having minimal growth - lower areas

1. The ridge across Phuna

 According to the local residents a larger kind of Cordyceps used to be found on the ridge crossing Phuna (mixed conifer and cool broadleaved forest). The place is about two hours walk from Tsikang JCP (Joint Check Post) of Royal Bhutan Army and Indian Army at an altitude of about 2780m with the geo-coordinate of 91⁰ 18' 73" Easting and 27⁰ 49' 81" Northing. The place has at least two herders hut and is known to keep yaks in winter months.                                        

2. Thangkarmo

 This place a common halting place for all the visitors' alike, pilgrims, officials on duty or anyone faring well to Singye Dzong is known to show some kind of Cordyceps. Herders say that they fungi are found among the grasses and in the bushes while looking for others things they require. According to the residents these are not worth collecting as only negligible quantity of them are found.

 Julue and Toe Toe Japhu area

 They are also known to grow in the localities mentioned above but in small quantities. The geo-coordinates, altitude and the quantum of Cordyceps grown are presented below in the table.

4. Dhogsoom & Terja areas

 Cordyceps are also found in the aforementioned areas though not in large quantities. According to them those Cordyceps found in the forests are larger and have taller appearances than those found in the alpine areas.

III. Geo - locations of the Cordyceps growing sites in the Range as understood so far

1. Higher areas meaning alpine meadows

Cordyceps growing place	Altitude (m)	X geo-coordinates	Y geo-coordinates	Approximate Quantity
Tshomkoh	4539	910 26' 56"	270 55' 51.1"	Available but little
Lehikema	4000	910 27' 01"	270 57' 20"	Available but little
Thangchenpo	4250	910 26' 65"	270 58' 25"	Available but little
Garula	5043	910 26' 41.9"	270 56' 33.7"	Better than other areas
Neyrimthang	4005	910 18' 42"	270 01' 50"	Better than other areas
Youm Thramayma Latsho	4774	910 16' 20.2"	270 56' 06.7"	Better than other areas
Tshokar	4256	910 17' 42"	270 00' 54"	Available but little
Tshonag	4250	910 17' 27"	270 59' 92"	Available but little
Toenlay	4000	910 27' 01"	270 57' 20"	Available but little

b. Lower areas meaning forested grazing areas below 3500m

Cordyceps growing place	Altitude (m)	X geo-coordinates	Y geo-coordinates	Approximate quantity
Phuna	2780	910 18' 73"	270 49' 81"	Large fungi but negligible
Chuna	2870	910 19' 13"	270 51' 03"	Large fungi but negligible
Thangkarmo	2900	910 19' 45"	270 53' 40"	Large fungi but negligible
Julue	3030	910 19' 18"	270 52' 69"	Large fungi but negligible
Toe Toe Japhu	3082	910 19' 52"	270 55' 01"	Large fungi but negligible
Terja	3100	910 20' 08"	270 55' 12"	Large fungi but negligible
Dhogsoom	3215	910 20' 36"	270 57' 18"	Large fungi but negligible

NB

 The approximate quantity part of the story in the table above pertains to the trend in the past and not this year. This year there was no collection owing to non - availability of the fungus added to it the close up of the collection timing to June 15 instead of June 30 in the past.

 IV. Reasons for non - availability of the Cordyceps sinensis this time

1. Late visit to the fungi growing sites

While it is very difficult to mention the reasons as to why the fungi are missing this time it is possible that the fungi has already been matured and that the growing sites has been visited late this time. All the fungi thus got perished and so the sites bore no fungi during our visit.

2. Possibly alternative year growth

The residents collected about a Bangchu (a platy traditional bamboo basket) of fungi last year and added the quantity to the auction, which means even in a good season the quantity, is not so high. Therefore, it can be inferred as the quantity being naturally less added to which is our colleagues suggesting and believing that the fungi may be growing better in alternative years that can be scientifically not true at all.

V. Recommendations regarding the collection of the fungi

1. The team would like to suggest the early tour for the collection permission and monitoring in the coming years.

2. The team also would like to suggest that further research be done as to really know the missing story this time.

3. Since the collection made so far has been very less, the people be allowed to sale the product piece by piece on their own even if the collection is done in groups giving them the freedom to deal outside auction. So much time cannot be consumed such a little product.

4. The collection be allowed as soon as the announcement has been made through BBS without having to wait for the Foresters arrival for issuing permit especially now as the research has allowed collection of what is available without having to keep some fungi on the ground unlike the past rule.

VI. Meeting with people of Raelmoteng

1. Information passed

The Khoma Ranger passed on the message of the recent decision of the Royal Government to have the collection of Cordyceps done as per the suggestions made by Research wing of the Agriculture Ministry, which allows people to collect all Cordyceps available without having to keep any pieces on the ground unlike the past rules. He informed the people that the collection timing for the fungi has been differed to 15th June as the last date instead of 30th June unlike the last year. 

Some people suggested that the timing for them has not been good as the growth of the fungi would start only after the snow has been melted to which the Ranger informed them that such suggestions has been ordered by the Government with recommendations from the research. Therefore, they were to adhere to the orders of the Government.

One of the residents suggested that they be allowed to collect the fungi as soon as the BBS announcement without having to wait for Forest personnel to come to their place. The Ranger informed them that the matter would be taken up for discussion with the management and necessary information passed accordingly after discussing the issue with the management.

2. Decision made

ü  All the matters discussed in the meeting to be passed to the management for solutions and that the information to be disseminated to them as soon as possible.

ü  That they will adhere to latest rules of the government while collecting the fungi

ü  That they will cooperate with the management in conservation activities in their area

Part II: Places of cultural importance and halt from Khoma till Singye Dzong

1. Tsangwa - villages of Dhenchung and Khomakang first day halt. This village is in the Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary.

2. Tsikang - JCP for RBA and Indian Army

3. Bafoh and Terdaphu

4. Tsikang Gongma

5. Phuna - Pasture with herder's hut

6. Chuna - Pasture with herder's hut

7. Gonu/Loongpu - Pasture with herder's hut

8. Julue - Pasture with herder's hut

9. Thangkarmo - Public halt place with a shed - Place for second day halt

3. Snow timing

The residents told us that the timing depended on snow. As soon as the snow melts the fungi would rise up just within two to three days and that it is always possible that late snow melt means degeneration of the fungi. Science may however suggest different after all common man's knowledge is common man's knowledge.

4. False collection tactics

While faulty collection tactics can be one reason it cannot be ascertained without further research. It is therefore fair that growth shall be closely monitored in the coming years.

The Khoma Ranger and his staff colleague at Thangkarmo shed

 

 10. Manihog - Pasture with shed

11. Toe Toe Japhu a cave with history of a Lam finding a unique bird moving by

12. Bumdelaptsa and Terja (has shed) - a pasture

13. Dhoogsoom Diversion

14. Dhogsoom to Raelmoteng

15. Dhogsoom to Singye Dzong

16. From Raelmoteng it is Zoray, Melung Zampa, Jaloochagsa, Phomoche and finally Thangchenpo after which is Garula, Tshomkohla and Yandro.

Thangchenpo

Phomoche

Patrolling team at Garula from where BWS headquarter was contacted on the radio set

Part III: Wildlife sightings

 The following wild life sighted during the tour of the Cordyceps areas in Khoma Park Range

 1. Mammals

i.                   Blue sheep - Pseudios nayuar at Garula and Neyrim Dzong between Tshokar and Tshonag sighted

ii.                 Royle's Pika - Ochotona roylii in Singye Dzong sighted

iii.              Himalayan Serow - Nemerrhadous sumatraensis - sighted near Zoray

iv.               Musk Deer - Moschus chrysogaster droppings and bristles found at Phomoche

v.                 Beech Martin - Martes foina sighted before Yanglapang

vi.               A sounder of Sus scrofa found near Yanglapang

vii.           Himalayan/Siberian Weasel - Mustela sibirica, did not sight but saw the tree trunk hollow between Zoray and Raelmoteng while on journey. Our guide Mr. Chuthamba confirms from the book its presence in that particular tree trunk.

Himalayan Stoat/Ermine - Mustela erminea. Did not sight but its hide was used by one Mr. Thukten, a Raelmoteng monk as a hanging material for his drum used for Thraelma Rimdro as shown below

Mustela erminea hide found in the hands of a Tshampa

A Tshampa with Himalayan Stoat (Mustela erminea) hide hanging from his drum

This confirms the presence of the Himalayan Stoat and thus the number of mammal list increased in the master list.

i.                    Himalayan Black Bear - Ursus thibetanus. Tracks found on the way to Raelmoteng after Jaloochagsa.

Picture of Ursus thibetanus track between Milung Zampa and Jaloochagsa

i.                    Snow Leopard - Panthera uncia/Uncia uncia. Not sighted but confirmed by the kill the animal made out of yak yearlings.

Uncia uncia the king of the snows

2. Aves

 The Nature Conservation Division’s ornithologist a couple of years back has assessed the avian fauna of the Sanctuary. However to authenticate and genuine -nize his list what ever the group know and found has been listed below.  

i.                    Snow pigeon sighted at three different places viz. Garula, Tshokar and Thangchenpo

ii.                  Tibetan Snow Cock; its dead body found below Lehikema (Dechenphu)

The some predators of its kind could have killed the Tibetan Snow Cock

i.            White Capped Water Red Start at Singye Dzong

ii.                  Ruddy Shell Duck at Tshokar

iii.                Alpine Accentor below Phomoche

iv.                Rose Finches at Phomoche

v.                  White Collard Black Bird at Raelmoteng

vi.                Hill Partridge near Tsangwa

vii.              Snow Partridge at Garula

viii.            Blood Pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus) - one of the most versatile species in Singye Dzong areas.

ix.                Blue Whistling Thrush at Raelmoteng

x.                  Grandala at Singye Dzong

xi.                Spotted Nut Cracker at Youmthramayma Latsho

xii.              Sun birds on the way to Youmthramayma Latsho

xiii.            Red Billed Chough at Phomoche

These eggshells were left in its original place by the ever developing Ithaginis cruentus

NB

The list of birds presented above is those birds that we know and those we have found on our way. Being under know-ledged in aves so many of those found could not be recorded being unidentified for lack of skills and know how.

Part IV: Miscellany

 In this section all sorts of points that have been left out will be reported and mentioned made of any positive things to be shared and reported.

Wonderful flowers of Singye Dzong area

 a. Rheum nobile

 Locally called as Chukar Meto this flower can be found in Thangchenpo and Youm Thramayma Latsho area. A man asked the Serzhong Ranger about the difference of this flower tips. The ones found in Youm Thramayma Latsho area have red tips as shown in the picture where as the ones in Thangchenpo do not carry red tips, they are white. The Ranger could not answer but saw the difference himself as in pictures below.

Youm Thramayma Latsho area Rheum nobile with red tips

Thangchenpo Rheum nobile without any colour on the tips

b. Primula sikkimensis

These flowers almost all the time dominate the plains of the alpine areas and are a very beautiful flower.

These flowers are the beauties of the alpine meadow; Thangchenpo

1. Rhododendron species

Locally known as Taap, this beautiful flower bearing Rhododendrons trees are the electricity for the alpine residents. They use them for heating themselves up, cooking and of course fencing which ever is suitable. There are however lot of other species as well.

The most common Rhododendron species found in Singye Dzong area

d. Meconopsis sinensis

Next to Primula are the Meconopsis species of flowers that occupy the alpine areas of Singye Dzong. Pictures below shall tell the flowers.

Meconopsis sinensis flower that abounds alpine Singye Dzong

The other variety of Meconopsis is Meconopsis horudula. Called as Guru Rimpoche's cucumber by local people for its stem can be roasted and eaten, this flower can be seen in abundance in Thangchenpo. This flower could be altitude specific as they are not seen lower down the valley of Raelmoteng and others.

Meconopsis horudula; Guru Rimpoche's cucumber 

e. Podophyllum species

A species known to have medicinal value this flower has been noted for the third time as this year. The flower's importance needs further studies so that they are understood better.

Podophyllum species that has high medicinal value languish in our Sanctuary

Some important pictures of the Sanctuary

Gawa Dzong the abode of Ap Terda Zorarakhi has been well repaired an year ago

Singye Dzong Guard Post with Sanctuary staffs in view

Raelmoteng Lhakhang built in 1973 by Kanjur Rimpoche today serve several purposes such as hall for praying to place for sleeping for the Guests of our caliber.

The Youm Thramayma Latsho fall that can cost thousand dollars if marketed is heart throbbing natural scene in our Sanctuary something one can be proud off

 Part V: Conclusion

 The overall view of the tour and touring group is hereby put in for considerations and comments from the management. While the objective of the tour must not have been fulfilled, for instance controlling of the intruders entering the Sanctuary area for collection of medicinal plants, the purpose of the tour could have been of little value owing to reasons such as non - availability of the Cordyceps because of which no entry of the intruders into our area. However, there can't be a guarantee that the people would not come along with another added no guarantee that the fungi will not grow. Therefore, the tour has to be made and information fed to the Government according to the situation.

 A mention may be made here that the Cordyceps has defied growing this time in all possible areas of Singye Dzong accept for Garula Pemithang which is not under the control of Lhuentse Dzongkhag nor the Khoma Park Range whose border follows the Dzongkhag borders when it comes to settling issues and issuing permits. Garula Pemithang belongs to Trashiyangtse Dzongkhag because of which only Trashiyangtse area people can benefit.

 All in all the growth of Cordyceps this time in Singye Dzong area has been nil, null or demeaning. The touring team to cross check if what the residents say is correct by making a visit to all possible sites has scoured all possible places. All possible fungi growing areas has been thoroughly checked and confirmation made.

 While Cordyceps production of higher volume may not be possible even hereafter, it may fare well if management skills are put to use after thorough research despite of its past records having revealed not so much of them growing in these areas.

 Therefore, the Sanctuary management in particular and the Government at large if workable may look into the possibilities of improving the growth of these fungi in the already favorable areas so that those people living in the tough areas can be immensely benefited. Our report however shall not mean that the studies should be done and that the people should be supported. It simply means that if people can be helped that can be great.

 It is worth mentioning here the request of our people residing in Raelmoteng that the timing for picking the fungi is kept flexible. We have been made to understand that the snow is the factor, which may hold not true to our scientists alike. The people have given in written about the extension of timing that our Khoma Ranger has been tasked to make it good for them through the kind permission of the management and the Government.

 The management with this report is kindly requested to look into the matter and see for possibilities of the time flexibilities or else make research people work in all Cordyceps areas instead of concentrating in one area of Jigme Dorji National Park or other areas where maximum of the fungi can be found.

 

Noto bene

I travelled length and breadth of Bumdeling Wildife Sanctuary since 1999 till the beginning of 2012 and this report is about one of these travels. That I have enjoyed travelling such places (sometimes twice a year) is a stark reminder that I did my job well enough to look back and smile as I grow old. I put this in my blog only to keep my report going, just a reminder to myself. If anyone wants to look at the information provided here, they are trust worthy, you can believe them.