NEVER DISTURB A PERSON IN DISTRESS

Never been afraid of someone in my life more than an hour ago!

I called her and I was told not to disturb her. How fearful? I will never call a person in distress from now on. Stay away from desperate people, you will be threatened.

At Chelela (Jelela locally) amongst the Primula with someone secret and sacred.

NO IDEA HOW MANY MORE FEARFUL RESPONSES WILL COME!

BUT WHAT CAN I DO?

ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!

SO BETTER TAKE THE PHOTO OF A FROG WHEN IT IS READY FOR A POSE ON THE TIP OF MY MIDDLE FINGER. THAT'S ALL I CAN DO FOR NOW.

BUT MY TOAD I HAVE TO EAT MYSELF FOR NO ONE EATS THAT.

NOT LONG AGO MY DAD TOLD ME NOT TO TAKE DECISIONS WHEN I AM VERY SAD, VERY ANGRY OR VERY HAPPY

BUT I TOLD HIM I AM HIS COOLEST SON. BUT HE DOES NOT BELIEVE THAT......

BUT I KNOW I AM A VERY COOL MAN AND THE LIFE GOES ON!

SHIFTING LOYALTY - ROLLING STONE GATHERING NO MOSS

NB

This piece was written in 2012 when I first joined Extension Services in the Dzong. With this I sought reasons as to why I entered Dzong after working almost one and half decade in the protected area systems. It was posted in my earlier blog which was removed and I reproduce here without any changes. However, the story now changes as I have come back to the protected area system.

The first and the last Dzong that I served in between  February 8, 2012 to May 31, 2016

I am an honest individual in my own way and I don’t care what others say and yes, this is my blog and I can only exploit myself as exploiting others could result into circumstances that are undesirable. And I am one who hate problems of any nature, especially if that originate from me. I don’t want any problems to me and I hate to create problem to others. Similarly, I expect no one to create problems for me. I live on the simple principle “not to harm anyone and to help anyone within my capacity” which to some or many (if anyone reads this blog) may appear ridiculous because people with such principles aspects more magic things to happen to their life than anyone else and I am an indifferent person. As always, what I write here is for my record and it should make no sense whatsoever to anyone who reads it. I have no intention to harm anyone with what I write in my blog nor am I looking for rewards. It’s just about passing my time.

So, the main story goes here. My work in one of the beautiful wildlife sanctuaries began in April, 1999 and I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the management. Life went on the way it should and being a senior individual in the group I had opportunities that others did not have. I am grateful to my senior and junior colleagues for everything they did to me. I have been lucky that more good things happened to me than others. An assessment of my immediate superiors could be interesting but since I write only true stories I might trigger unhappiness in them which is against one of my principles. They were as cool as ice, as hot as Bhut Jolokia chili, as caring as mothers and at some points like a pumpkin in the book. They were highly knowledgeable, they knew nothing, they were such great humans and they behaved like the wild animals. My bosses were also brilliant as well as laggards; they knew how to do their things and did not bother what others think about them. To put in a sentence “they were as ordinary as possible,” dancing to the tune of their bosses and situations. Well! Who in Bhutan is extraordinary? So, no surprises at all. Look at the diversity of their characters. Aren't they amazing? So, having worked with people of such varying characters, I enjoyed both boon and bane. Boon because I looked at their positive sides as an example and shun the negative side of their behavior that gave me chance to reflect once a while and to look at the world holistically. Bane because many times their negative behavior forced me to ideologically challenged them, cheat them and even threaten them. Whatever the story, I felt it as an enough experience to continue with them and opted myself out of the job in my own terms. I thought I should live better under the shadow of bigger tree than being under a same lean and thin tree with occasional sun rays hitting my body parts, a torturous one at times. And this is one of the several reasons that I chose Dzong. I have served under the same condition for fourteen years and it is not such a short time for a life not more than seventy five (that if one can survive). Look at my logics. It is interesting. One must diversify the works. Trying a change for good (if it turns good). I hope the change does not give me experience that's painful or worthless.

The other reason is quite and quiet personal. In my past job, that beautiful fourteen years, I thought I just existed. It meant that I did not live. My language teacher, now Education Minister, during my pre-university study at Sherubtse (1994 - 1996) told in one of his classes that stones exist and that we as people live. I did not understand the actual meaning of this statement and even today I do not know much about what that meant. But, I concluded myself that people who do nothing just exist (like stones) and that people who positively help the society in whatever small or bigger ways live. Taking this example, I felt that I just existed in my past fourteen years. So, to live myself I thought I should explore new areas where I can make better contributions to the society in whatever small ways. I started weighing all the available options that offered me to be closer to helping the society. Of the very few choices I had, I liked the idea of working in the Dzong, the centre for developmental works for the society in Bhutanese context. Hence, I gave up the idea of rejoining my past job right after completing my forced by circumstances Bachelors degree. I did not find any charm in territorial works (though I do not hate it) and I dispised research largely due to the lack of support while being in Thimphu (functional divisions). All these small but impact producing things really does not go well with my thinking. So, the Dzong emerged as Hobson’s choice.

Some other small reasons behind my choosing the Dzong include the disorder in my interest. Being an explorer, I can understand what to do, what I did and what I am going to do. The science records of the Bhutanese archives carried no information on the herpetofauna of Bhutan. Therefore, I took up the study very seriously and wrote a report of a national standard. Out of this very report I wrote an international peer reviewed paper (I can share a copy if anyone wants it). But as we (Bhutanese) are poor readers, nobody read it. If such papers are not read and not referred, they are useless. They are as good as being not written. Some action plans (biodiversity) did not read the peer reviewed paper and did not mention anything about the reptiles, despite the fact that the information had been available from my work. It meant that my work has been useless. Therefore, I felt it meaningless to continue my research work, especially for my beautiful country as no one would read and cite. From now on, if I continue this herpetofauna work it will be entirely for publication and production outside Bhutan at any cost.

Only a handful of my friends know that I am a trained Wild Lifer. As I said earlier, being a senior member of the management for all the time, my office trained me for twelve months at the Wildlife Institute of India. On the first occasion, it was three months certificate course wildlife management while I underwent nine months PG Diploma in Wildlife Management from the same institute in the second time. I thought I am a good wild lifer and I still believe I am good because I won a Silver Medal for best thesis (Wildlife Management Planning) and also won the WII Directors Conservation Medal for being a best foreign trainee. Wildlife is my passion. I like my wildlife job. But to be dynamic one should move ahead and taste changes. And this is one of the several reasons that I am in the Dzong.

A few of my friends (really very few that include my former wildlife colleagues) felt and still feel that I should work for the sanctuaries and the parks. Yes, they must feel it because it should be like that. But, life is not as simple as we deem. The axe does not land in that area where you want it to hit and the wood does not split the way you want it to (Nosa tarey mefo, thrangdhi shingi megag). I think it is fair enough that things sometimes do not go the way you want because the world would be so boring if everything happens the way you desire. One’s life must include tensions and depressions as much as the enjoyment and happiness. Otherwise, life would be a humdrum affair. It is based on this concept that I opted out for something new but I have not given up my hobbies and interest of wildlife conservation - no, not even a single bit.

Moreover, so many years of Barababuship is monotonous. One must learn to take charge of situation at some point of time instead of being an underdog for the whole life. With so much of education and experience (I mean wildlife) I am prepared to take charge of any protected area but only if chances are given. It is a complicated issue and one cannot demand such jobs and it would be sickly thing to claim oneself that one is prepared for bigger responsibilities. People in power must recognize your contributions and they must entrust you with responsibilities. Unfortunately, Barababus do not get cognizance because of the very fact that one is a Barababu. Here, I do not mean to say that Barababus have been overlooked; I just mean that the nature of job is like that. However, I am thankful to god that at least I had the option to move out of Barababuship for doing nearly a similar thing. And yes, there must be Barababus, otherwise it is not the case of everyone being the Boss. There must be someone to be subordinates and not everyone can become a Boss. Therefore, I do not question my authorities for whatever they do. But, for the moment, I am not a Barababu anymore. I but have a fervent hope that my small contributions that include establishments of new field offices, field surveys, patrolling and a few scientific reports in national and international journals are seriously taken by my successors in their own small or bigger ways. It’s note worthy here that I bought prayer beads (Pchems or Mani Phrangmas) for the hunters of my range at one point of time and I appreciate that some of them have given up fishing and hunting after that. For this small reason I give myself a salute because, I have at least saved thousand fishes - not definitely for conservation but for the life of the animals.

Hope I have not blown my trumpets to irritate my readers (if any). My sincere apologies. I have given up my job that goes with my hobbies only for the sake of change and I am prepared to revert back to my old profession any time. 

  

Disclaimer 

This is my personal thought and anything written here is not intended to harm or promote people or things mentioned here. No one is authorized to use the content of this blog for either personal or private purpose. People mentioned here in are fictitious characters and any resemblance to anyone with some characters or more are purely coincidence.

 

WILD VERSUS BHUTANESE – SOME SPECIAL OBSERVATIONS

NB
These are some of my special observations from the field and are facts that are extant in distant places even today. This piece of writing was online in my earlier blog that was removed for reasons beyond my control. I am posting it here without any changes.

1. FENCING WATER SOURCES
Homo sapiens want water as if other beings do not need them while we know very well that nothing can exist on the earth without water. It is important to consider the wild animals while doing such jobs because the sustainability of mother earth depends on the intricate and complex network and interdependence of various forms of life that the humans called biodiversity. I am putting here just a case that I have seen and I am sure many such things are happening in many other places because we are by nature greedy and would not like to share the resources.

Around the small lake called Darchen in Khamdhang, Trashiyangtse, fencing (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4; Photo(s) courtesy: Trashigang Territorial Forest Division ) has thrown many wild animals into anger as has been evident from the tracks around the fence looking for a hole to get into the lake to have some water required very much for their survival (4th August 2012).

Figure 1. Foresters around the lake wondering at the kind of fence people made.

Tracks of wild ungulates, cats and many other animals could be seen around the fence proving that they needed water from that source. For the kind information of the readers (if any), the area where the lake is located is dry and there are hardly any water holes nearby for the animals to drink. Once that only source is locked, the only choices left for the wild animals is travel all the way to Dangmechu by crossing the village or reach the Buyang source (on the way to Trashiyangtse) and they can reach the source only if they cross the villages north and south (such is the topography of the area) of the lake.

But the animals while looking for water source can harm the crops of the farmers as they will be using the village routes to reach the water hole. And why not if there is something they can eat on the way they will of course raid the farms. As such, such fences encourage human-wildlife conflicts in an era when such things are seen as serious threat to the poor farmers of Bhutan. Don’t we have gumption? Can’t we improve these things? Are there any policies? I am a wildlifer and I am also a son of a farmer and being such a complex human know something of both ecology and farming. And being such a complex man is very confusing. Feeling of being a loser enters in from every orifices of my physical body.

And being in favour of both wild animals and farmers I am often a confused conservationist - a perfectionist but not perfect, a stagnant traveler (not climbing up my career any more), a symbol of strength bounded by weak links, a homemaker with no roots and a dreamer who fears to fall asleep, not much of a talker more like a thinker and a dreamer. So, my readers know another character of me which I have kept it as secret so far. Can’t we do something about fencing the natural lands as reserves or anything? Can’t we stop fencing our water sources? I am sure there will be something if there are concerns and hope someday my message reach someone who can make decisions.

Figure 2. Look at the number of strands. Even the birds will have tough time to get into.

Figure 3. Another look at Darchen Tsho. Very tight! No entry to wild animals!

Figure 4. Entry to Darchen Tsho, only for Homo sapiens only!

2. STILL USING OAK TREES FOR PLOUGHING THE FIELDS
Our farming system has not improved a bit despite so much of efforts and investments into the farming sector. I do not think Bhutanese Agriculturists will agree with my statement because they have shown such progress on papers and media and I just hope they are right. The case I am putting here is that of Udzorong in Trashigang and nowhere else because I visit the area more than any other Gewogs. Unlike my many friends who visit their girl friends’ villages (I am joking), I visit Udzorong more because in 2012 the year I joined Trashigang Dzong, there were at least 12 incidences of forest fires from the area and they forced me to be there more than in my office in the Dzong. From there on, I make sure that I visit Udzorong more frequently if they see my visiting as solution to reducing forest fires and in an interesting coincidence, forest fires have reduced in Udzorong by many folds now.

One of the most disturbing things I have seen in Udzorong besides forest fires during my visits is the use of Oaks as the ploughs (Figures 5). In the world of technology when it is time that we talk about internet farming our Udzorongpas still use oak. And my question is why they should still use the less permanent forest harming methodology when there are lots of other technologies. A piece of oak plough would not last a day while collecting and treating it is a lengthy process.

First they have to look for matured oak trees, then they should fell, shape, season and treat them wasting lots of time and energy. Felling oak trees by such a large number of households can degrade the environment and render the village and its localities barren in the long run. And I know what Edward Abbey said, "my love of the wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach; it is also an expression of loyalty to the earth which bore us and sustains us, the only home we shall ever know, the only paradise we ever need - if only we had eyes to see" is true in this case. We can do something about this situation. It is possible. But here, I see only blind people and I am actually confused. Such a silly things going on for centuries and still continued.

Therefore, someone must act and teach Udzrongpas some lesson on how to use other materials for their ploughs. One of the methods I suggest is the use of iron ploughs as used by people of Dagana (that I have confirmed information) and other areas in Bhutan. I asked my Ranger in Udzorong to promote the iron ploughs used in his village in Dagana so that out oak trees in Udzorong are saved. But agriculture technology in Udzorong is a failed story because if small things such as the ploughs are not improved I can’t imagine other higher level of developmental agriculture have reached Udzorong. Can the Agriculturists do something about this? Are there any solutions to these mass murdering of oaks?

Figure 5. Plough-tips dried and seasoned for use very soon

3. THE EDIBLE FROGS OF DAIFAM
Batrachologists call them Hoplobatrachus tigerinus and the locals call them Paa (Figures 6) but I don’t have name for it because it is not the Paa that I learned in my amphibian class nor is it a Nanorana species that’s known by the name of Paa. So, I am confused. But they are eaten well by many people.

While returning from my election duty in Merak's Khelephu village, I was forced by strike in Assam to stay a night and a day in Jomotshangkha, Samdrup Jongkhar and that gave me an opportunity to find what type of Paa was eaten in that area. As I reached the Dungkhag administration headquarter, I met my distant friend whose name I know by his village in Bumthang called Tang and his name conveniently derived from his village as Tangpa. It was he who told me that he is drying some Paa frogs at the place he was putting up for taking the meat to Thimphu and pressingly told me that he has some relatives with piles which gets treated with the kind of meat. I told him that frogs do not cure piles because I have not read and found such ideas anywhere in any frogly documents that I have read. But I cannot disagree that I have heard such hearsay from my many friends. However, very strictly speaking, I never read such treatments anywhere. Therefore, I cannot for sure tell whether such treatment helps or it’s just belief. But I have a strong feeling that such ideas are bullshit. But to be honest, I am inclined to also believe that such treatments are there because my friend Tangpa told me that he tried it for himself and insisted that it makes the piles smaller.

Since, he gave his part of story with himself being the example, I started believing it very strongly. So, I asked for at least 10 frogs to be packed and dried for my consumption together with him (Tangpa). But to my amazement, I found that as many as 150 frogs were brought by a seller whom my friend knew very well, that also well dressed (murdered, outer skins removed, viscera taken out and heads cleaned) and a piece of it cost Nu. 45/- (Ngultrum Forty Five) only for a live frog. At least 10 of them were brought alive to show what type of frogs they cut and ate which even surprised me more because they were giant Indian Bull Frogs and not the Nanorana which is called as Paa in actual sense. I wonder how many species are consumables in the wild, because I can feel many species can be eaten by Homo sapiens irrespective of their medicinal values.

Figure 6. Hoplobatrachus tigerinus presented to public as Paa (Nanorana species)

The most interesting thing about this frog is its capacity to cure piles according to my friend Tangpa. I wonder how true it is and would like to start a research on how it does, because if it is true, we can farm the species and treat all the people with piles in Bhutan and the world. And frankly, the belief that this species cure piles cannot be reversed because even the educated ones strongly believe that they cure piles in true sense. But I can tell you, the protein or the carbohydrate content of the frog can help you stay away from hunger and keep you healthy but curing piles need further scientific confirmation.

Whatever the case, I am fine but for one thing, the mass murder without assessment data. While I am very innocent in this belief of curing piles the quantum of animals they collected for my demand for 10 pieces forces me to recall this Cree Indian Poem lines "Only after the last tree has been cut down. Only after the last river has been poisoned. Only after the last fish has been caught. Only then you will find that money cannot be eaten."

Can anyone help me rescue the species from such mass collection? Any confirmations for its unconfirmed medicinal values? Shall we not breed and farm them for our pile patients? Anyone there to help me out?

4. NYA DHOTSEM – A FISH DELICACY
That fishes are delicious items in an eating menu; no one can deny but how they are eaten differ by localities. In western Bhutan (I do not want to specifically name the place) there is a fish delicacy in the name of “Nya Dhotsem” (Figures 7). The method of fish catching I will not explain here because it can done in many ways based on the situation but I will explain about how the delicacy is made.

The fishes once out of the water are dressed (scales, gills and viscera removed) and simultaneously young wet bamboo plants are cut and a kind of convenient layer made that goes between the gills hole and the tail region conveniently positioned to dry the dead fishes as in figure 7. They are sun dried if there is ample sun shine but many times they are oven dried. Oven dried here means not those electrical ovens of the developed countries or the rich people but those local ovens fed by the natural woods of Bhutan’s great forests. In a typical Bhutanese home, every kitchen has a Tshanta (a Sharchop term for kind of hanging shelf kept over the oven so that wet things can be dried as and when the oven is lit up for cooking meals) which is very important. I tasted such a delicacy and it is very interesting. I don’t know the cost but I can pay well for the delicacy because it is really testes (tasty).

Figure 7. Nya Dotsem - a delicacy made out of fish.

But what is my issue here? This delicacy does not come to market and I wonder why? Can anyone help me blow this up to such a scale that our fishermen are happy so that they can enjoy.

Disclaimer

This is my personal thought and anything written here is not intended to harm or promote people or things mentioned here. No one is authorized to use the content of this blog for either personal or private purpose. People mentioned here in are fictitious characters and any resemblance to anyone with some characters or more are purely coincidence.

FIELD LEARNING IN INDIA - AN EXPERIENCE TO CHERISH FOREVER

Wildlife Institute of India in Dehradun trained me for three times. The first training I had was on basic wildlife management in 2002 and 2003. Me and my colleague Namgay happened to be second person to attend the course the first one being our senior Pema Gyeltshen who attended the same course in 1996. The second training I undertook was another wildlife management course, but this time much deeper and longer. They then called it Post Graduate Diploma in Wildlife Management and I passed this course in 2007 with distinction. This blog is about the first field trip we had, venturing into the jungles of Corbett Tiger Reserve in India's Uttarkhand State, where Jim Corbett a yesteryear's British Naturalist tamed man-eating tigers and leopards. With guides like Professor AJT Jhonsingh who followed Corbett's natural history books, we got to see the nallahs (stream depressions) where Corbett hid to shoot the man eaters and how people fought the tigers.

This is a sample of how a tour report was submitted for assessment and information sharing during my PG Diploma course. Third course is a secret and professional. No sharing here!

Title of the tour
Orientation Tour for fulfilling the requirement of PG Diploma Course

Objectives
To orient the trainees to field of wildlife in the field
To inculcate in the trainees a sense of interest for wildlife conservation and management
To expose the trainees to wildlife management in the field
To learn about India’s first National Park
Of all to make the trainees true wild lifers

Introducing the visited area
Corbett National Park is India’s first National Park known for its wild population of Tigers, Leopards and Elephants. Located in Uttaranchal, a new state curved out of Uttar Pradesh, it is home to a variety of flora and fauna. About 110 tree species, 50 mammals' species, 580 bird species and 25 reptile species are known to occur in the Park whose earlier name was Hailey National Park (in 1936). It was rechristened as 'Ramganga National Park' in 1954-55 and again in 1955-56 as 'Jim Corbett National Park' after Jim Corbett who hunted down tigers that had turned man-eaters, between 1907 to 1939. The oldest National Park of India is one of the nine Tiger Reserves created in 1973.

A heaven for Tigers and its prey, which include four species of Deer, Wild Pig and some lesser-known animals the park also has Leopards mostly found in the hilly tracks where tigers don't visit much. Besides, the Park also harbours a good number of nocturnal cats such as Leopard Cat, Jungle Cat and Fishing Cat. Sloth Bear is found in the lower regions of the park while the Himalayan Black Bear is seen in the higher hills only. The Dhole or Wild Dogs, Jackals, Himalayan Palm Civet, Indian Gray Mongoose, Common Otter, Black-napped Hare, Porcupine, Elephants are some of the animals of Jim Corbett Park. Long-snouted fish-eating Gharial Crocodile and the 'Mugger' Crocodile can also be seen in the Ramganga River. Goral or Goat Antelopes, Langur, Rhesus Monkeys are also part of the Park.

The total area of Corbett National Park is 520.82 sq km (1318 sq km Corbett National Park including Sonanadi Wildlife Sanctuary) (http://www.corbettpark.com)

4. Day wise schedule of activities that were conducted during the tour

Thursday, October 5, 2006
Journey started from WII at 7.30 am in the institute bus. Accompanying faculty members; Dr. B. Pandav, Sh. A. Udhayan, Sh. D. Mohan, Guest lecturer - Dr. AJT Johnsingh and Sh. Babu. Reached Kalgarh Wildlife Training Center at about 1.30 pm. (Journey via religious Haridwar)

Area of visit

Walk and drive between Main Dam and Settle Dam at Kalagarh
At about 3.00pm afternoon we were (diploma) trainees taken to Kalagarh Corridor. The walk started with identification of Holoptelia intgrifolia and Alancium (not so sure of spelling). Dr. Johnsigh tells us about the study done on Cattle Egrets in Africa.

The list of plants identified during the walk
Cassia oxidentalis
Tephrosia sp.
Indegofera sp.
Acarianthus sp.
Avicemalis sp.
Urina sp.
Cleorodendron infortunatum (Sambar hide in many sambar habitats)
Karuta urens (palm tree of which piths are used by ducks)
Acaia ferniciana
Bridelia retusa (food for elephants, chital, Muntjac, horn bills and green pigeon). This is Euphorbiaceae plant with slantingly parallel venettion)
Lania coromendalica
Niraudia sp. (grass)
Helecteris isora
Thevecia pervinia
Sterculia villosa
Heteropogon contortus
Desmodium oogenesis
Zyzyphu xylopyrus
Mimosa himalayana
Artemesia scoperia (near Meerasonth)
Thysonalina sp.
Desmodium velutinum
Brinia vitispidi

Birds observed and learnt
Brahmini Kite (Seen flying over the sky above the bridge). Why rare? Because this kite unlike Praya kites and others are purely carnivore.
Chestnut headed bee-eater (Near Meerasonth)
Blue Headed bee-eater
Fulvous breasted pied woodpecker (near settle dam)

Other connecting things found and learnt
That disturbed habitats are avoided by elephant herds (told on the corridor bridge).
Corbett is a place Rhinos where reported in the past.
Pugmarks of tiger seen at Meerasonth bridge
Paul Newton study revealed that about 1500kg of wet biomass released by the Langurs on the ground in Sal forest in one year and eaten by Chital.
An Agama lizard found (couldn't be identified).
A mugger crocodile found at Settle dam.
In the evening met with the Director of Wildlife Training Center (established in 1998) Mr. Narian Singh.
Every lush green habitat cannot be a good habitat as the species present may not be palatable.
Why do Sambar nibble Lantana shoots, it is because they are less toxic?
A Goral was spotted gazing on the top of the hill opposite the Main Dam (before reaching it).
Langur droppings and elephant tracks observed.

NB
What ever recorded here are the new things learnt during the short afternoon trip between Main Dam and Settle Dam of South Corbett. So many things must have been taught but not have gone to my head and therefore no recording.

Friday, October 6, 2006
Area of walk/study
Training Center to Jerna (a place from where people belonging to three villages were chased to favor Tigers and other animals of the Jim Corbett Jungle).

Faculty members present
Dr. B. Pandav, Sh. A. Udhayan, Sh. D. Mohan, Guest lecturer - Dr. AJT Johnsingh and Sh. Babu
Time
7.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m
Mode of travel
Drive for 4 km or so and then walk Dhara to Jerna and Kothirau & back to

Things learnt/observed/taught in the early morning till evening
Barking Deer (Muntiacus muntjac)
Dr. Johnsingh told us that the male Muntjac occupies bigger home range than the female ones. A male’s home range would have 2 -3 females which it would mate even during the velvety antlers to prove its faith to its female company and to ensure that the female is faithful to it (the only deer species which shows such character). One Mr. Cyril Barech studied the species in Wilpattu National Park in Sri Lanka. They are never seen more than 3 in number at a place. They are low density species subject to local extinction. Serow, goral, sambar, hog deer, nilgai and Muntjac are endangered in Corbett. Nilgai endangered means the habitat is good as the species occupies habitat that are disturbed. Corbett habitat best for tigers.

As we walked on observed the following vegetation species;
Crataeva religiosa (Trifoliate leaf)
Zyzyphu oxiphilla (uneatable with both sides of the leaf surface green in colour)
Acacia nilotica/arabica (used as tooth brush)
Rightia tinctorial
Premna mucronate
Securinega varosa
Glycosmis pentaphylla (non-palatable)
Strobilanthes asper (fig) - with rough surface of leaf on both side and round leaf
Sulelina verbicifolium
Xanthium stemera (Roba Sha) - Rodents feed on it; grows in heavily disturbed areas
Ichnocarpus friutescens ( a climber seen with Zyzyphus in Corbett)
Acaia insia ( Tseringmazoo- Sha; eaten by elephants)
Cordia mixa
Dom Sal (small leaves in Sariska)
Randia dometorum (Fruits crushed and spread over can bring fish to the surface but mammals and others eat them)
Sage - Eriophorium comosum (Siperaceae)
Colibrokia oppositifolia (Tissue paper)

Birds that I do not know observed (those I know not listed)
Pied Bush chat (female)
Red whiskered Bulbul
Honey Buzzard
Shaheen Hawk (on the top opposite Kothirau)
White Belied Kingfisher
Crimson Headed Parakeets

Others learnt
Elephus maximus defecate 15 times a day.Male weaver bird makes 3-4 nests to attract females so that they can attract females who would choose the best nest making male to copulate for procreationThe young ones of hares can run as they are born but not the rabbit young ones because they are born blind and naked. Rabbit litter their young ones in burrows they make but hares give birth to young ones in small depressions in the grassland.Hairs have long ears with lots of blood vessels for thermo-regulationThe leader of elephant herd usually a female is Matriarch
Elephant produce 6 sets of molar teeth in life time
Ungulates spread their toes in slippery areas to avoid slipping
Minimum requirement of protein in grasses for ungulates is 4%
A matured Langur may weigh 10 kgs
Tigers can be chased by sloth bear
Yarding behavior of Chital, staying in open especially in groups to avoid predation the so called anti-predatory strategy
That Pythons have rudimentary legs and that their tracks will always be straight
Chital neck become thick and the body colour becomes dark red during the rutting season that start by about April or May
Sambar ruts by November and shed their antlers by May/June

Other things observed during the trek
Peacock being killed by Honey Buzzard
Watch Tower at Dhara forest
Tiger pug marks on the trail
Tracks of ungulates such as sambar, chital found everywhere on the trail
Black bear tracks observed
Varanus and Python tracks
Chital attacking our driver Mr. Rawat at Jerna interesting behavior of Chital
Black Buck female found at Jerna tamed

Recommended books to be read
"Among the elephants" by Hamilton and "Elephant Song" by Wilbersmith

Saturday, October 7, 2006
Area of walk/study
Training Center to Paterpanisonth (A place from where one can see Tor putitora in the Jim Corbett Jungle). Paterpani Rest House has a beautiful Guava tree which bears tasty fruits.
Faculties Members Present
Dr. B. Pandav, Sh. A. Udhayan, Sh. D. Mohan, Guest lecturer - Dr. AJT Johnsingh, Sh. NK Vasu, Sh. AK Nayak, Sh. Babu, etc.

Time
7.30 a.m. till 6.00pm
Mode of travel
Drive for 5 km or so and then walk along the Paterpanisonth to Paterpani Forest Rest House and walk back to Training Center)

Things learnt/observed/taught in the early morning and whole day hereafter
Dr. Johnsingh said that the area is the highest tiger density area perhaps in the world. Talking about Mahasher he said that there are about 7 - 8 species of Mahasher in India and that their breeding is external and that the eggs of Golden Mahasheer being heavier than other species of fish require a gravelly underground so that they will not demerse (sink). The sperm of fishes is called as Milch and that the fishes come to their natal streams to procreate from a long distance. Threats to this population are electricity, dynamiting, Randia domentora seeds etc. When dynamited the fishes sensory sense used for balance while swimming located at the lateral line ruptures making them dead and fit for consumption.

The Jungles' Travel Law
You should see the animals before they see you
Your mouth should be closed and rest of the senses, eyes, nose, ears and others should be opened
The trumpet of an elephant is the warning that you should not go near the animal
In a tiger country one should walk in open areas where visibility is high so that escape is easy.

Unknown birds made known during the day. Known birds not recorded.
Stork billed kingfisher
Grey Headed woodpecker (Id by Dhananjay Mohan)
Crested Kingfishers (largest)
White Breasted Kingfisher
Stork Billed Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Small blue Kingfisher
Brown winged, Black Capped
Collard Kingfishers (Found in coastal areas)
Three toed something?
White brow Wagtails breed in Central India
Grey Wagtails breed in Himalayas
Dollar bird

Plants identified/seen and learnt during the walk
Albezzia odoritossima (Fodder)
Hymenoditum excelsum
Cynoglossum sp. (a weed called as forget me not) which followed me till the end of walk
Bridelia verucosa
Grevia elastica (can be used as torch after debarking)
Antidesma acidum (Chutney plant)
Litsea sinensis (bark eaten by Sambar)
Embelia rightii
Syzygium opporculatum (stinks like mango)
Desmodium motorum (white flowers with small leaf like structures on petioles) Carissa opea (looks like Principia)
Themedia sp.
Phlogocanthes thyriciflorous

Other miscellany (Things learnt and seen)

Dr. Johnsingh showed us the right place where Jim Corbett talks about the two brave brothers (in My India) in which the attacked brother was saved by other brother from the claws and teeth of a tiger the reason tiger attacked the fellow was for the lifting of the Sambar killed made by the tiger.
A tiger can eat 20 - 30 kgs of meat at one go.
According to Sh. Dhananjan, there could be as many as a dozen wood - pecker species in a habitat such as Paterpanisonth
Woodpeckers feed on bark.
The drumming sound of woodpeckers is a territorial signal.
Woodpecker types (Streak throated, Lesser and Greater Yellonapes, Grey and Brown Pigmy's.
Flame backs (Himalayan/rumped back.
Wood peckers indicate old forest with lots of hole on the trees
Arboreal, Langurs have log tails for balance
Macaca munjala new discovered making 17 non - human primates species in India
2 species of primate found in Corbett
Hoolocks found only in NE India
The white circular patch on the wings of bird seen while flying is called winged mirror.
Jim Corbett have been wrong two things that only male gorals have white patch on the throat and that the Himalayas are younger than Siwaliks
That elephants are chicken hearted.
Goral hunted using planks that would drop own being stepped on the hill caves
That ungulates are digitigrade where as cats plantigrade
Wild pigs - farmers of forest, peacock farmers friend and tigers Principal of forest (story of a Forest Officer who takes classes for Diploma trainees during the tour)
Sloth bear tracks rounded/rotund tips where as Black Bear Track distinct fingers found at different heights.
Jackal track different to others
Sinquist found 7 females in a Range of a single male tiger in Nepal
Indian Pita that migrate to Sri Lanka get tired when they reach south India and its comfortably eaten by birds of prey
That there are three elephant species; Loxodonta cyclotis, Loxodonta africana, Elephus maximus
Elephants modify the habitat and makes easy life for other species – Facilitation
Elephant drinks about 100 liters a day
North India has 10% of its elephant population Makhna
In winter elephant should not be given bath as they would be getting cold.
Elephant seen (30 -35 years) drinking on the way to Rest House Paterpani at 10.35 am (IST)
Elephants eat Mallotus twigs and discard leaves to avoid succulent, secondary compound that is imbibed in leaves
Ram Whitaker who dreamt of having snake park in Madras went to Coorg and collected two numbers of king cobra and they died at Madras (Knowing biology of animal important)
Observed one sloth bear on the road way back to Training Center at 4.38 pm
Observed one elephant herd (10 - 15) on the road way back to Training Center at 4.45 pm - a viable population – a very interesting site.

Something turtle - ly
Soft shell turtle found in this river Paterpani sonth
Elongated/Sal forest tortoises
Tri-carinated Hill Tortoises
Narrow headed Soft Shell Turtle
Flap Shell Turtle

Recommended books to be read about elephants
"Megaherbivores" by Owen - Smith; and about “Chinese Goral” by Charadut Mishra

Sunday, October 8, 2006
Area of walk/study
Training Center to Mohand (Where Jim Corbett shot the man eating tiger) (A place from where one can see Tor putitora in the Jim Corbett Jungle and the Rest Houses and back to Ecotourism Center of Corbett)
Faculties Members Present
Dr. B. Pandav, Sh. A. Udhayan, Sh. D. Mohan, Guest lecturer - Dr. AJT Johnsingh, Sh. NK Vasu, Sh. AK Nayak, Sh. Babu etc.
Time
7.30 a.m. till 6.00pm
Mode of travel
Drive from Training Center to Mohand and walk down to Berghata angling site and back the same way after lunching at Berghat to Ecotourism Center, Corbett.

Things learnt/observed/taught in the early morning and whole day hereafter

That Mahasher is eco-tourism species (As told at Kosi River bank Infinity Hotel end)That Mahasher can eat meat (10% carnivore)Ficus rumphii has stiffer petiole than F. religiosa which also has long leaf apex (not the case in rumphii).
Bohemeria macrophylla (a good shrubby fodder whose appearance is like Gerardinia sp. But no stinging and that B. microphylla of same genus is tree species)Predators eat grasses to remove the worms to clean the worm in the elementary canal. The grass act as pull through for the worms in the stomach. Seen on the way down.
Nyctenthes shrub loved by sambars.
That one can make Tor putitora come to one’s place by adapting to smells of particular character. Atta with cow dung may become characteristic and may constantly visit the site.
Persia changed to Genus Machilus.
That jungle babblers learn from their parents to feed and bring up their chicks - aunt-ing behavior that can benefit one when they become mother in future

End of the day at Ecotourism Center
Met with Rajiv Khatray, Director of Corbett Tiger Reserve who talked to us about the management strategies adopted in CTR, the challenges of the world such as climatic change, land degradation and invasive weeds; he talked at length about the floating mess for his patrolling staff, free oil and vegetable supplies and subsidies, timely salary among other things. The sizes of the CTR given less important as it can be found from any literature of the area, etc.

Monday, October 9, 2006
Area of walk/study
Ecotourism Center of Corbett to Choti Haldwani/Corbett Museum
Faculties Members Present
Sh. A. Udhayan, Guest lecturer - Dr. AJT Johnsingh, etc.
Time
7.30 a.m. till 6.00pm
Mode of travel
Drive to Choti Haldwani/Corbett Museum visited the possible corridor for tigers and drive back to the Institute

Things learnt/observed/taught in the early morning and whole day hereafter
Photos of Corbett's sister, mother, father and his dog robin seen at the Museum, everything he used kept in order in museum.
Not so many things but one that the tigers would not breed in disturbed area but use them for movement.
An ant-land larval spots observed on the banks of the rau near Choti Haldwani.

Acknowledgement
The educative lectures during the tour by Dr. AJT Johnsingh and faculty members, Dr. Bivash Pandav, Sh. D. Mohan, Sh. A. Udhayan and Sh. Babu are hereby gratefully acknowledged. Special acknowledgement for the arrangement tour is hereby extended to Sh. A. Udhayan, Course Director and Dr. Bivash Pandav, Tour In Charge (and also my first wildlife teacher)

The Institute that gave me basics of conservation (Photo: From internet using google search)

ELIMINATING POVERTY IN DEVELOPING COUNTRIES - A DREAM GOAL

NB
This article was written in 2010 as an assignment for an academic course on development management. Here are some reasons behind the developing countries’ inability to fight poverty despite their concerted effort. The inability starts from the countries poorness to faulty political systems including the richer countries trying to grab the developing nations’ natural resources for their use. The poverty is also understood to be caused by the orthodox nature of the people living in developing countries where changes are considered taboo.

An example of a humble remote village in Bhutan. No roads, no electricity. But lots of wild animals.

Chambers (1983, p. 2) laments at the appalling future prospects of miseries and finds the effort put at that time to eliminate that poverty very inadequate. He points out that the rural poverty is at its maximum in third world countries of South Africa and South Asia, and is also prevalent in Latin America and rest of Asia. Today, three decades after what Chambers (1983) has said, third world countries remain the same. The statuses of the poorer sections of the people have hardly changed. Despite of their concerted effort to fight poverty South Asia and South Africa have failed to overcome poverty the reasons for which are numerous. In Bhutanese context, the so called spatial biases brought about by urban centres, road networks (Chambers, 1983) and other activity centres of growth is very relevant as development follows, the towns, roads and the other activity centres like schools, hospitals and project sites (e.g. Punatshangchu Project), etc. While remote people are left out of vision, the urban centres and the villages having access to road network have benefited a lot and is seen as main factor for rural urban migration. All the development projects are stationed in such places where money is being already spent, staffs are in place and space for work is conducive. An example of such a project in Bhutan is that of late Dasho Nishioka’s agricultural project which failed to take root in Zhemgang but had a big success in Paro. This project displacement showed that people in rural areas makes less sense than those living in urban and developed areas, exposed to new technologies. Another bias, the person bias (Chambers, 1983) comes from those people who have access to resources. They being closer to the rural development tourists, rural researchers and developmental workers present good picture of other’s life while the real rural people are not considered as they are far away. Most of the elite farmers entertain the development workers and conveniently drag all facilities towards themselves making other farmers even poorer. Gender biases, user and adopter biases and active, present and living biases are some factors that contribute to rural poverty. Another biases called dry season bias (that affect the wet-dry tropical developing countries), diplomatic bias (where poverty is shame to be discussed, something below the dignity, juniors hiding the failed project results from seniors etc.) and professional biases (professionals in rural areas become narrowly single minded) are some of the major factors contributing to rural poverty that create more gaps between the rich and the poor. Most of the developing countries one can see are conveniently located in climatically disadvantaged and backward areas.

Beyond the rural poverty and rural situation in developing countries, the reasons behind their unsuccessful attempt to thwart poverty are lack of resources, faulty political regimes, lack of education and traditional mind set. They do not have medical technologies making them less hygienic; have very poor disease preventive services, and social services, that lead to a very restricted economic development. Majority of the developing countries are governed by oligarchy, arbitrary, and totalitarian regime, some of the examples of which are North Korea, most African countries, as well as China. The developing countries are mostly isolated from the rest of the world, and the reclusive restraint hinders them from receiving international aid as well as exchange of knowledge. For example, North Koreans have no idea what the outside world is like, because the government even bans the use of cell phone, not to mention the other rights of the citizens (Noland, 2008). Although, the case of Bhutan is different, as such restriction do not exist, the country cannot however, disagree that the phenomena of television and internet is a late entrant to the mainstream development process. Even today, there are areas in Bhutan where there are no TV and internet facilities.

China is an example of a large developing country with large population. They are known for fast development, but the kind of government they have is arbitrary. Booming economy and prosperity is the scheme they employ to keep the people under control indirectly forcing people to defer to the dictatorship. A country without freedom is as good as an open jail. Development must include freedom, peace and happiness – the recent principle of the government of Bhutan, which takes, happiness as parameter to measure development.

Being technologically behind developed countries in agriculture and others, developing countries’ agricultural as well as other production is restricted. Therefore, the supply is always disproportionate to the population demand leading to famine and emaciation in these countries. To be at the higher social status in developing countries is a challenge for the rank-and-file citizens. Therefore, inequality and widening gap between the affluent and the impoverished saturate in these countries as well. Examples of such happenings are in Saudi Arabia, Egypt, and developing countries in Africa which have the world's most petroleum reserves, that are owned by the extremely wealthy individuals, while there are lots of poor people starving (Zimbabwe United Nations Country Team, 2003), a sort of capitalism supported principles of the haves to suppress the have-nots.

One of the reasons behind developing countries’ impoverishment is the faulty political system. Civil wars, ethnic struggle and terrorism is prevalent in developing countries as their political leaders most often are totalitarians, who either want to continue to rule the country for long time or take chance to get rich once they get opportunity. In these situations, it's really hard to ameliorate the current predicament in the developing countries. Arbitrary regimes suppress people from repelling against the government and they cannot call for freedom. When people learn to defer to the totalitarian regimes, the contingency is that they will learn to accept the current status quo, without struggling for a change. However, here the case of Bhutan is altogether different. Such struggles and wars do not happen in Bhutan. Every intelligent Bhutanese have right to lawfully shine themselves and become wealthier any point of their life. Law to safeguard the citizens’ life are in place and the country is slowly moving towards equal rights for all. With the recent democratization, there is hope for the people of Bhutan to live a peaceful and happy life, more so with the importance placed by the government for the so called gross national happiness. However, the most important step is to devolve political, economic and social powers to the grass root level local government bodies (“National Report,” 2000) for a successful development projects.

One reason, according to Nickson (2002), is that the development effectiveness are reduced in poorer and smaller countries because of the mismatch in the objectives of the donor and the countries’ specific requirements supplemented by complex administrative process that results into failed ownership. The other reason is religious and the orthodox nature of the people, a kind of “unacceptable to change” residing in developing countries. Some religious faith do not favour changes and consider new developments as taboo while cultures in some poor countries promote rural existence. Further, some traditions in developing countries favour polygamy and polyandry resulting into population explosion which adds to poverty.

In sum, the developing countries’ reclusive societal norms, faulty political system, unreasonable religious principles, high population, low level of education and shortage of resources often accompanied by famine and starvation are the factors responsible for their inability to tackle poverty despite of their concerted effort in the last three decades. Even if one look ahead, the future is grim with the ever rising population and disasters like earthquake and tsunamis happenings at regular unannounced intervals that are affecting developing countries. But for Bhutan, if all things move the same way it has been going thus far, things should be safe and sound for the future. However, the most important step will be to devolve political, economic and social powers to the grass root level local government bodies for successful development projects, which is already set into motion by the current democratic government.

References
Chambers, R. (1983). Rural Development. Putting the Last First. Longman Group Limited, Longman House, Burnt Mill, Harlow. Essex CM20 2JE, England.
Ministry of women and children affairs. (2000). National report on follow-up to the world summit for children. Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh. Dhaka: Government Printing Office.
Nickson, A. (2002). Bolivia, a country case study prepared for the OECD DAC Task Force on donor practices. International Development Department, School of Public Policy, University of Birmingham, Birmingham B15 2TT, UK.
Noland, M. (2008). Telecommunications in North Korea: Has Orascom Made the Connection? Peterson Institute for International Economics, 1750 Massachusetts Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20008 USA.

Zimbabwe United Nations Country Team. (2003). Zimbabwe UNDAF Joint Mid-Term Review Report. Harare.

 

Disclaimer

This is my personal thought and anything written here is not intended to harm or promote people or things mentioned here. No one is authorized to use the content of this blog for either personal or private purpose. People mentioned here in are fictitious characters and any resemblance to anyone with some characters or more are purely coincidence.